Musée des Beaux Arts de Limoges
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Chigot stained glass at the Musée des Beaux Arts de Limoges
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The art of stained glass in Limousin
1. Limoges
Capital of the Fire ArtsFirst, let’s head to Limoges, the City of the Arts of Fire. Indeed, stained glass – a craft that combines the art of fire with industrial technique – has shaped the city’s identity, alongside Limogesenamel and porcelain, which have made it famous throughout the world. A native of the city, the internationally renowned master glassmaker Francis Chigot has left his mark on Limoges:
- Stroll beneath the dome of the Gare des Bénédictins, ‘France’s most beautiful station’, where huge Art Deco-style stained-glass windows cast a soft, gentle light
- Stroll through the gallery of the Museum of Fine Arts to admire the permanent exhibition of stained-glass windows by Francis Chigot, featuring colourful reflections of foliage and nature
- Push open the heavy gates of the churches to admire the stained-glass windows and their play of light: the Basilica of Saint Michel de Lions, the Church of Saint-Pierre-du-Queyroix…
2. Oradour-sur-Glane
New St Martin’s ChurchIn the new village of Oradour, rebuilt following the destruction of the historic village during the massacre of 10 June 1944, the new Church of Saint Martin features stained-glass windows by Francis Chigot, produced in collaboration with the Atelier du Vitrail in Limoges based on designs by Pierre Parot, and inaugurated in 1953. Although monumental in scale, they lend the church both a sense of gentleness and solemnity.
In a highly figurative style, these luminous stained-glass windows depict passages from the Gospel that speak oflove between people. One takes the time to watch the light playing through the stained glass, like a glimmerof hope after darkness. 🙏
Jeux de lumière des vitraux dans l'église Saint-Martin à Oradour Sur Glane
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Vitrail de l'église des Billanges
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3. Les Billanges
Church of the Nativity of St John the BaptistLet’s continue our‘stained-glass hunt’ in Les Billanges, a peaceful little village in the Monts du Limousin. Dating back to the 12th century, its little church is notable for having been fortified during the Wars of Religion, as evidenced by the striking battlements and arrow slits above the chancel and the door!
Built in the Romanesque style, it consists of a single long nave where you can admire the play of light, as well as a reliquary from Grandmont Abbey – a treasure showcasing the goldsmithing skills of the Limousin region – and some ancientfrescoes.
Whilst you’re there, we recommend a spot of nature with the ‘La Mûre’ walking trail and a tasty break at the Besse farm inn! 😁
4. Saint-Hilaire-les-Places
The Romanesque Church of Saint-HilaireThe craftsmanship of both ancient and modern times intertwines in Saint-Hilaire-les-Places. In the small Romanesque church in this village Pays de Nexon Monts de Chalus, you can admire 11th-century frescoes alongside a collection of contemporary stained-glass windows. These windows were created by the local painter and enameller, Léa Sham’s(her other creations can be seen at the Galerie du Canal in Limoges ❤️).
Step inside the church, open your eyes wide and let yourself be captivated by Léa Sham’s colourful play of light: “I focused on two key colours – purplish reds and ultramarine blues […] to lend power and warmth to the images […] and to create rich, intensely coloured, vibrant atmospheres.”
It’s worth noting that concerts and exhibitions are regularly held in this deconsecrated church to help fund its restoration… The venue is perfectly suited to such events!
Vitraux de l'église du Vieux Saint Hilaire
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Eglise de Saint Priest Taurion : le vitrail, un savoir-faire du Limousin
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5. Saint-Priest-Taurion
Saint-Priest ChurchSaint-Priest Taurion is a small commune situated about twenty minutes from Limoges along the River Vienne. Step inside its 12th-century church to admire an enamelled reliquary cross from the treasures of Grandmont Abbey, as well as remarkable stained-glass windows by master glassmaker Francis Chigot, which play beautifully with the sunlight!
Also worth discovering in the village: the quirky Récup’Art Garden, Bort Castle and, for foodies, the refined cuisine at the hotel-restaurant Le Relais du Taurion. 😋
6. Saint Amand the Younger
A work of art inside the churchSituated near Lac de Vassivière and the medieval town ofEymoutiers, Saint Amand le Petit is a small village in the Limousin, situated within the Millevaches Regional Nature Park.
Its small 13th-century church is notable for having been restored in 2015, with the creation of a contemporary artwork within the church itself. Entitled‘Water, Air, Earth and Fire’, this piece, which depicts the four elements, was created by the visual artist Jean-Pierre Uhlen, commissioned by the local council.
The work comprises a mural, stained-glass windows, furnishings and aninnovative lightingsystem…along with some truly harmonious plays of light! Definitely worth a visit!
Read more: the ‘Focus’ feature on stained-glass windows produced by the Pays d’art et d’histoire de Monts et Barrages, highlighting the expertise in stained-glass craftsmanship in the region at Vassivière and Limousin.
Stained glass and light effects at Saint Amand le Petit church
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L'Aelier de Chigot stained glass windows in the Collegiate Church of Saint-Léonard de Noblat
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7. Saint-Léonard de Noblat
Romanesque collegiate church listed as a UNESCO World Heritage SiteWe round off our tour of stained-glass windows in the ‘ Limousin ’ region in the medieval town of Saint-Léonard de Noblat, one of the most beautiful villages in Haute-Vienne. Head into the historic centre to visit its Romanesque collegiate church, listed by UNESCO as part of the Routes of Santiago de Compostela in France.
The church is dedicated to Leonard, the patron saint of prisoners, who has been the focus of a pilgrimage since the Middle Ages. There are also many walkers on the Way of St James. Follow in their footsteps through the ambulatory, where you’ll see the stained-glass windows dancing with the light. In 2022, it was once again the Atelier du Vitrail – the successors to Francis Chigot – whose expertise was called upon for the restoration of the stained-glass windows in the nave.
Would you like to find out more about Francis Chigot? We invite you to read the ‘Focus: Francis Chigot, Master Glassmaker’, produced by the Pays d’art et d’histoire de Monts et Barrages and the Ville d’art et d’histoire de Limoges, or the biographical work ‘Ce que maître verrier veut dire: Francis Chigot 1879–1960’, written by Martine Tandeau de Marsac, his granddaughter and a member of the Francis Chigot Association.
